Mezcal History by Vanessa Goodman

What is Mezcal?

Maybe not what you think, but we can help. The drink derives its name from the native Aztec word mexcalli, meaning “cooked maguey”. This distilled liquor is akin to tequila in that both are made from agave, but as the saying goes: “All tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila.” (more on that later). We like to think of mezcal as tequila’s smarter, older cousin.

Where did Mezcal come from?

Most recently, we hope it came from our agave fields when you ordered it on www.mezcalveras.com. But before that, mezcal made its humble beginnings in Mexico in pre-Spanish Oaxaca, where the locals considered the agave plant to be sacred. Trust us, it still is.  Back then, it had multiple uses as it produced food –  the fibers were used to make clothing and shoes, and it helped to make adobe for building houses. The thick spikes on its leaves were also used as nails and needles for rituals (we know you read that twice, so did we).

As legend would have it, lightning struck an agave field and cooked the heart of the plant, releasing “the elixir of the gods” more commonly known as pulque. This was a lightly fermented milky substance that the natives drank, often in spiritual practice.

When the Spaniards arrived and their supply of European alcohol was quickly drained (salud!), they turned their attention to the local fermented beverage. But as their palates were more accustomed to stronger liquors, the conquistadors began experimenting with the fermentation process of the agave plant. When the sweet nectar was distilled, the resulting liquid was mezcal.

Agave is still sacred and mezcal is still used in rituals: the rituals of friendship, discovery, love, fun, art and the perfect pairing with your favorite foods.

But what’s the difference between mezcal and tequila?

Well, there’s not. And there is. Mezcal made from specifically blue agave in the Mexican state of Jalisco is the liquor we now know as tequila: named after the small town of Tequila. Those are the two conditions under which tequila can in fact be called tequila.

Now here’s the kicker. Because mezcal can be made across the country and from any species of agave plant, it was a drink for the masses ‒ a poor man’s drink ‒ and therefore was looked down on by the upper classes. We’re okay with that; it means more for us.

Meanwhile, tequila became mass produced and exported to the extent that in the 1970s, tequila was named the national beverage of Mexico. It also became that national beverage of spring break.  Meanwhile mezcal has emerged as the national beverage of authentic culture, art and most importantly, flavor!

Due to the wide variety of agave species from which mezcal is made, it has a myriad of notes, though mezcal connoisseurs and newbies start with mezcal’s smokier flavor.

Okay, so what’s the deal with the worm?

There are two known theories behind the “tequila worm”. The first is that it was used to differentiate between bottles of tequila and mezcal on agave plantations that produced both liquors. According to regulations, tequila must be made with at least 51% agave, whereas mezcal must be 100%. As such, the worm is reserved for mezcal bottles only.

The second theory tells the story of a Mexican mezcal producer around the 1950s who one day found one of these worms in his batch. He found that the insect actually improved the taste of his product and thereby ordered that every bottle contained one. When this captured the attention and curiosity of consumers, other mezcal producers quickly followed suit.

In the biz, we call this a “marketing gimmick”. The truth is you don’t need the worm. It’s cute, but it’s just a fermented worm. And, it’s not even a worm! It is actually a moth larva often found living in the agave plant and is known as the gusano rojo meaning “red worm” hence why it’s more commonly known as the worm.

Let us know what you think in the comments section.  We are here to help you on your mezcal journey.

Long Live Mezcal!